Vieux Télégraphe
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Crau 2023
High above the Rhône plain, on the stony expanse of La Crau, the Brunier family tends one of France’s most storied vineyards. Each vintage of Vieux Télégraphe distills a century of devotion to this harsh and beautiful place, where vines grow not in soil but among stones. The 2023 release captures that heritage at its purest: a wine of sculpted structure, radiant fruit, and the unmistakable clarity that only this plateau can impart.
From hand-harvest to slow fermentation in concrete, every step at Vieux Télégraphe reflects patience. The old vines, some planted before the Second World War, yield small, concentrated berries that speak not of abundance but of endurance. Matured in large, neutral foudres, the wine develops a strength and texture that feels carved rather than built.
Few wines so seamlessly capture the paradox of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the marriage of Mediterranean warmth and mountain freshness. The 2023 Vieux Télégraphe radiates both: the generosity of ripe Grenache framed by the cool austerity of limestone. It stands as proof that in the right hands, hardship becomes harmony, and from the stones of La Crau, true beauty is born.
Vieux Télégraphe
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Crau 2023
Your Price: $125
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“In spite of its extreme youth, this great Chateuneuf-du-Pape leaps out at you with its depth of wet-earth, ripe red-berry and dried-flower aromas. Rich and concentrated, but so suave and refined. Incredible length! Already delicous, but this has a great future ahead of it. Drink or hold.”
98 Points