2023 Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

2023 Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

with No Comment $100 and overChateauneuf-Du-PapeFranceKevin VogtRhone Valley

Vieux Télégraphe

Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Crau 2023

2023 Vieux Telegraph Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Crau

High above the Rhône plain, on the stony expanse of La Crau, the Brunier family tends one of France’s most storied vineyards. Each vintage of Vieux Télégraphe distills a century of devotion to this harsh and beautiful place, where vines grow not in soil but among stones. The 2023 release captures that heritage at its purest: a wine of sculpted structure, radiant fruit, and the unmistakable clarity that only this plateau can impart.

From hand-harvest to slow fermentation in concrete, every step at Vieux Télégraphe reflects patience. The old vines, some planted before the Second World War, yield small, concentrated berries that speak not of abundance but of endurance. Matured in large, neutral foudres, the wine develops a strength and texture that feels carved rather than built.

Few wines so seamlessly capture the paradox of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the marriage of Mediterranean warmth and mountain freshness. The 2023 Vieux Télégraphe radiates both: the generosity of ripe Grenache framed by the cool austerity of limestone. It stands as proof that in the right hands, hardship becomes harmony, and from the stones of La Crau, true beauty is born.

Vieux Télégraphe
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Crau 2023

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“In spite of its extreme youth, this great Chateuneuf-du-Pape leaps out at you with its depth of wet-earth, ripe red-berry and dried-flower aromas. Rich and concentrated, but so suave and refined. Incredible length! Already delicous, but this has a great future ahead of it. Drink or hold.”

98 Points

2023 Synthesis Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

2023 Synthesis Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

with No Comment $30 and underKevin VogtPinot NoirRussian River ValleySonomaUSA

Synthesis

Pinot Noir 2023
Russian River Valley

2023 Synthesis Pinot Noir Russian River Valley

Born from Martin Ray’s estate vineyard along Laguna Road, the 2023 Synthesis Russian River Valley Pinot Noir captures the essence of its origin with striking clarity. The site sits in the heart of the valley’s cool corridor, where morning fog shapes firm but bright fruit. In the cellar, thoughtful intention takes the lead, resulting in a Pinot Noir that balances power and poise, each element reflecting the vineyard’s coastal charm.

The 2023 season unfolded slowly, each stage measured and guided. Yields were modest, canopies were managed for balance, and harvest came only when acidity and aromatics aligned perfectly. The result is a wine that feels sculpted and alive with detail, yet effortlessly composed.

Aged twelve months in French oak, the 2023 release finds its balance in texture and tone. On the palate, it’s silken yet vibrant. Fine-grained tannins guiding a line of vivid acidity through a finish that lingers with quiet confidence. This is Russian River Pinot Noir that’s expressive, graceful, and beautifully composed.

Synthesis
Pinot Noir 2023
Russian River Valley
Retails at: $50

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“A crisp and clean pinot with dried strawberries, cherries and hints of sandalwood on the nose. Medium-bodied with firm tannins and a juicy finish. It has all you need. Drink or hold.”

94 Points

2021 Florence Reserve Zinfandel Rockpile Sonoma County

2021 Florence Reserve Zinfandel Rockpile Sonoma County

with No Comment $30-$40Kevin VogtSonomaSonoma ValleyUSAZinfandel

Florence

Reserve Zinfandel
Rockpile 2021
Sonoma County

2021 Florence Reserve Zinfandel Rockpile Sonoma County

Few places challenge a vine like Rockpile. Perched on a ridge above Lake Sonoma, where the wind never rests and the soil fractures like ancient bone, the Florence Vineyard defines what it means for a vine to struggle and to triumph. From this unforgiving terrain emerges the 2021 Florence Vineyard Reserve Rockpile Zinfandel, a wine that channels its hardship into strength. The result is a Zinfandel that captures both the wildness of altitude and the refinement of mastery.

Long before Rockpile was recognized as an appellation, Jack Florence Jr. saw its promise. He carved his vineyard into the rocky hillsides with the conviction that hardship breeds distinction. Decades later, his 2021 Florence Vineyard Reserve Zinfandel affirms that vision: a wine of intensity and grace, rooted in heritage cuttings from the storied St. Peter’s Church clone and elevated by the restless energy of the mountain.

Only 235 cases were produced, each bottle an unfiltered glimpse into one of Sonoma’s most demanding landscapes. The 2021 vintage speaks in layers of blackberry, cracked pepper, and wild herbs framed by minerality and tension. It’s a wine that feels alive, pulsing with the elevation that shaped it, the craftsmanship that guided it, and the patience that allowed it to find its voice.

Florence
Reserve Zinfandel
Rockpile 2021
Sonoma County
Retails at: $60

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“Lush, almost creamy in texture, this complex, high powered and deeply fruity wine boasts distinctive black pepper and singed sage flavors atop its deep black cherries and blackberries. Moderate to full tannins give it a good backbone for pairing with big proteins. Best from 2025–2035.”

94 Points

2022 Ovid Experiment No. N7.2 Napa Valley

2022 Ovid Experiment No. N7.2 Napa Valley

with No Comment $100 and overKevin VogtNapaProprietary RedUSA

Ovid

Experiment No. N7.2
Napa Valley, 2022

2022 Ovid Experiment No. N7.2 Napa Valley

At OVID, winemaking has always existed on the edge of science and poetry. The 2022 Experiment No. N7.2 embodies that balance, translating raw mountain intensity into fluid grace. Crafted from fruit grown on Pritchard Hill, this wine channels volcanic soils, unrelenting sun, and meticulous viticultural precision into a Cabernet blend that feels both sculpted and spontaneous, bringing a rare equilibrium of intellect and instinct.

Winemaker Austin Peterson, drawing on mentorship from Andy Erickson and Michel Rolland, explores how subtle variations in elevation and canopy height can reshape a wine’s voice. The wine spent 20 months in French oak, allowing the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon to merge gracefully with Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Petit Verdot. The blend reveals OVID’s signature balance between extraction and elegance, where intensity never overshadows finesse.

Inspired by the Roman poet Ovid, celebrated for his transformative “Metamorphoses,” the winery embraces a philosophy of innovative exploration. Every vintage from OVID is a conversation with nature, and N7.2 feels like its most eloquent reply yet. This is OVID at its most articulate: bold, cerebral, and effortlessly beautiful.

Ovid
Experiment No. N7.2
Napa Valley, 2022
Retails at: $225

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“The 2022 Ovid Experiment No. N7.2 is a compelling Napa Valley red, blending Cabernet Sauvignon with Cabernet Franc and lower percentages of Merlot and Petit Verdot, sourced from high-elevation Pritchard Hill vineyards. On the nose, it blooms with precise layers of red currants and spiced black plum, supported by cedar, warm baking spices, wet-stone minerality, cocoa powder, and a dusting of white pepper, revealing an intricate aromatic profile. The palate delivers sweet blackberries with bright, intensely flavored fruit that maintains a very linear, focused foundation. Firm yet satiny tannins provide structure without aggression, leading to a long, elegant finish that echoes the nose’s complexity. This wine possesses genuine depth and balance, promising evolution over the next 15+ years, gaining further complexity.”

95 points

2021 Grand Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

2021 Grand Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

with No Comment $30-$40Cabernet SauvignonCalistogaKevin VogtNapaRutherfordUSA

Grand Napa

Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley 2021

2021 Grand Napa Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Grand Napa’s 2021 Reserve Cabernet is a reminder that power, when guided by grace, leaves the most profound impression. The wine embodies the quiet confidence of a classic vintage, defined by clarity, energy, and poise. Its core of Cabernet Sauvignon delivers precision and depth, while Cabernet Franc contributes lifted florals, and Merlot softens the edges with its signature plushness, resulting in a wine that feels sculpted rather than forced.

 

Drawn from premier sites across Rutherford, Calistoga, and the broader Napa Valley, the 2021 Reserve captures the essence of each terroir in a single, harmonized voice. Under Stéphane Vivier’s steady hand, these elements are woven together with restraint and precision, creating a wine that reflects both the diversity of Napa and the unity of a master’s touch.

Aged twenty-two months in fine French oak, the 2021 Reserve reveals both pedigree and purpose. The texture is silken yet structured, the finish long and deliberate. Vivier’s craftsmanship ensures it will age with poise, deepening in nuance and complexity over time. For collectors seeking the intersection of authenticity, longevity, and value, few Cabernets express Napa’s modern elegance as confidently as this one.

Grand Napa
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley 2021
Retails at: $110

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“Winemaker Stéphane Vivier matures this Cabernet in 50% new French oak for 22 months. Fragrant dusty earth minerals, cranberry fruit laced with cinnamon spices, and hints of dried rosemary and sage. Medium-bodied with gentle tannins that glide to a spicy finish with blood orange acidity and hints of clove and cassis.”

92 Points

2021 M. Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine Rhone Valley

2021 M. Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine Rhone Valley France

with No Comment $60-$70Chateauneuf-Du-PapeFranceKevin VogtRhone ValleyRhone Valley

M. Chapoutier

Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Bernardine 2021
Rhone Valley, France

2021 M. Chapoutier Chateauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine Rhone Valley

At the intersection of tradition and innovation, Chapoutier’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Bernardine captures over a century of expertise in a single glass. Guided by Michel Chapoutier’s visionary approach and commitment to biodynamics, the 2021 vintage achieves a rare balance: power without heaviness, purity without austerity.

The wine draws its character from the Rhône’s storied terroir: ancient quaternary soils strewn with massive pebbles, remnants of a long-lost glacial river. These galets, mingled with clay and sand, form a natural oven by day and a cool haven by night, yielding fruit of remarkable intensity and elegance unique to Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

The 2021 vintage is a masterclass in restraint and clarity. A Grenache-driven blend rounded out with Syrah and Mourvèdre, and raised for fifteen months in concrete, preserving purity of fruit and the unadorned voice of the vineyard. Elegant, concentrated, and profoundly expressive, La Bernardine 2021 is an eloquent reminder of why Châteauneuf-du-Pape remains one of the world’s great red wines.

M. Chapoutier
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
La Bernardine 2021
Rhone Valley, France

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“A textural, refined and velvety Chateauneuf-du-Pape with aromas of forest berries, wet stones, roasted meat, wild herbs and some bark. It’s medium- to full-bodied with fine, firm tannins. There is a refined texture here, silky at the center, with a delicate core of dark cherries challenged by an intense array of spices that provide verve and energy. Lively and focused finish with length. Try after 2026.”

93 Points

2022 Slingshot Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast

2022 Slingshot Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast

with No Comment $30 and underCabernet SauvignonKevin VogtMendocinoNorth CoastUSA

Slingshot

Cabernet Sauvignon
North Coast 2022

2022 Slingshot Cabernet Sauvignon North Coast

In a world where many Cabernets chase power and weight, Slingshot chooses clarity and freshness. It’s a wine built on transparency and precision, crafted from the finest corners of the North Coast and polished just enough to let the fruit shine. With sleek tannins, cool vibrancy, and effortless confidence, it proves that approachability and depth aren’t opposites, but partners in refinement.

That clarity begins in the vineyard. Sourced from select sites across Mendocino and Lake Counties, the 2022 vintage captures the full character of the North Coast’s landscape. Each parcel contributes a distinct voice: structure from Mendocino’s ancient riverbeds, freshness from Lake County’s volcanic ash. Together, they shape a Cabernet that’s expressive, finely textured, and alive with energy.

The 2022 Slingshot feels effortlessly composed. A Cabernet that doesn’t shout its origins; it reveals them gradually, with quiet precision and modern grace. For those who crave the purity of California fruit without the excess, this wine lands exactly where craftsmanship and authenticity meet.

Slingshot
Cabernet Sauvignon
North Coast 2022
Retails at: $23

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“The Slingshot 2022 North Coast Cabernet Sauvignon has a bright nose of cranberries, red currants, and cherries, with spicy notes of cedar, sage, and sweet tobacco. On the palate, the wine is vibrant and finely structured with flavors of black raspberries, red currants, and white pepper. The wine is a pure, lifted expression of Cabernet Sauvignon, emphasizing its cool-climate origin.”

94 Points

2023 Jean-Christophe Perraud Saint Veran Burgundy France

2023 Jean-Christophe Perraud Saint Veran Burgundy France

with No Comment $30-$40BurgandyChablisChardonnayFranceKevin Vogt

Jean-Christophe Perraud

Saint Véran 2023
Burgundy, France

2023 Jean-Christophe Perraud Saint Veran Burgundy France

Some wines describe their origins, and others sing them. Jean-Christophe Perraud’s 2023 Saint-Véran belongs to the latter, translating the chalk and clay of southern Burgundy into a symphony of purity, tension, and grace. It’s a wine that channels generations of vineyard knowledge into a Chardonnay of remarkable clarity and poise, bringing an undiluted expression of terroir and nuance that Burgundy lovers crave. 

Perraud’s secret lies beneath the vines. Their Saint-Véran draws its character from parcels rooted in the classic clay-limestone soils around the village of Prissé. Here, minerality isn’t an afterthought, but the backbone of the wine, shaping its crisp acidity, fine-boned structure, and the tension that carries through its lingering finish.

Every detail of this wine shows how deeply Perraud respects nature’s rhythm. Ideal conditions in the 2023 growing season helped the grapes develop full aromatic expression while preserving their freshness. The result is a Chardonnay with striking purity. It’s the kind of wine that deepens one’s appreciation for Mâconnais, offering a pure, unfiltered taste of the region in its most captivating form.

Jean-Christophe Perraud
Saint Véran 2023
Burgundy, France

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“The Jean-Christophe Perraud 2023 Saint-Véran Grand Vin de Bourgogne has exquisitely balanced aromas of jasmine, apricots, golden apples, marjoram, a wet stone minerality, and pie crust fresh out of the oven. On the palate, the wine displays flavors of peaches, tangerines, sweet spices, honeycomb, and pastry dough. The flavors show a wide range of complexity and depth that seamlessly glide into a long, sophisticated finish.”

95 Points

2018 Leto Exceptional Selection Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena

2018 Leto Exceptional Selection Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena

with No Comment $30-$40Cabernet SauvignonKevin VogtNapaSt. HelenaUSA

Leto

Exceptional Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon
Saint Helena 2018

2018 Leto Exceptional Selection Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena

Some of Napa’s most extraordinary wines are born far from the spotlight. The 2018 Leto Exceptional Selection Cabernet Sauvignon comes from a small, unassuming vineyard on Pratt Avenue in St. Helena, where half-century-old vines yield fruit of remarkable depth. This is not a wine made for acclaim, but for integrity: a deeply personal statement from a veteran winemaker who understands that restraint, time, and patience reveal more than ambition ever could.

From these weathered vines comes fruit that speaks in fine detail rather than volume. The 2018 vintage captures St. Helena’s subtle contrasts of warm valley-floor ripeness layered over cool evening structure. Twenty-one months in French oak added definition, not disguise. It’s a Cabernet that feels sculpted by nature, not built by human hands.

After years of quiet rest, the 2018 Exceptional Selection feels perfectly composed, its elements aligned. The fruit hums with energy, the tannins have softened into velvet, and the finish stretches on with calm assurance. It’s a rare opportunity to experience a wine not just at its peak but in its prime.

Leto
Exceptional Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon
Saint Helena 2018
Retails at: $125

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“The Leto 2018 Exceptional Selection Cabernet Sauvignon shines with opulence and elegance, beginning with aromas of blooming lavender, blackberries, plums, dark chocolate, cloves, cedar, and sage. On the palate, the wine has concentrated flavors with depth and length, ranging from fresh black fruits, flourless dark chocolate cake, savory notes, allspice, and graphite. The finish is long and seamless, and the wine is stunning at the present moment and shows indications of a wine capable of extended aging in the cellar.” 

97 Points

2021 The Mascot Proprietary Red Napa Valley

2021 The Mascot Proprietary Red Napa Valley

with No Comment $100 and overKevin VogtNapaProprietary RedUSA

The Mascot

Proprietary Red
Napa Valley 2021

2021 The Mascot Proprietary Red Napa Valley

Few wines manage to balance prestige with accessibility as seamlessly as Will Harlan’s The Mascot. Born from the younger vines of Napa’s most revered estates, it offers a glimpse into the extraordinary and a rare opportunity to taste the DNA of Harlan, BOND, and Promontory in a form that’s vivid, expressive, and alive.

Every detail of The Mascot is shaped by its remarkable provenance. The fruit is drawn from parcels that, while younger, share the same meticulous farming, low yields, and uncompromising standards as their iconic parent estates. It is at once a reflection of its iconic lineage and a celebration of potential, capturing the raw energy of terroir before it matures into legend.

With its seamless integration of fruit, structure, and nuance, The Mascot achieves a level of refinement that belies its price. The 2021 vintage captures the essence of the year: vibrant yet composed, generous yet finely etched, offering an experience that is both intellectually engaging and deeply pleasurable. It’s a wine that doesn’t simply hint at greatness, but delivers it. 

The Mascot
Proprietary Red
Napa Valley 2021

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“The 2021 Mascot Proprietary Red from Napa Valley emerges as a compelling blend, showcasing the estate’s younger vines with remarkable depth and precision. On the nose, it unfolds layers of blackberry pie and red currants, accented by violets, crushed rocks, menthol, and a hint of cocoa powder, all integrated seamlessly. The palate mirrors this intensity, dominated by black currants, chocolate-covered cherries, and kirsch, with silky tannins framing a supple mouthfeel and sweet fruit. Concentration defines the core, yet opulent fruit finds equilibrium through firm tension, avoiding heaviness. This wine’s structure suggests seamless evolution, with bright acidity carrying through a persistent finish marked by mineral notes and subtle spice. Drink now for its vibrancy or cellar through 2035-2040 for added complexity. A standout effort from the Harlan family.”

95 Points