Portalupi
Charbono 2022
L. Venturi Vineyard
Mendocino County
Portalupi’s L. Venturi Vineyard Charbono impressed us deeply, easily surpassing the Cabernets we recently tasted. This is a wine of undeniable allure, weaving layers of profound depth that command your full attention with each sip. With only 80 acres of Charbono gracing California’s vineyards, Portalupi’s masterful expression stands as a siren call, beckoning wine lovers to rediscover a varietal that whispers of untapped potential.
Charbono’s journey is one of resilience, tracing back to the slopes of France’s Savoie region, where it’s known as Douce Noir, and flourishing in the rustic landscapes of Northern Italy. This enigmatic grape yields brooding wines, inky depths, sumptuous textures, and a structure as enduring as stone. In the US, vintners like Turley, Heitz Cellar, and Robert Foley have also unveiled Charbono’s hidden charms, and Portalupi’s version stands tall among them.
Drawn from 90+-year-old vines that stretch their roots deep into the pinole gravelly loam of Mendocino’s L. Venturi Vineyard—this Charbono is a testament to the magic of California terroir. Its robust, yet elegantly structured profile enchants, proving that Charbono is a revelation waiting to unfold in your glass.
Portalupi
Charbono 2022
L. Venturi Vineyard
Mendocino County
Retails at: $45
Your Price: $36
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“This Charbono opens with a densely layered bouquet, where notes of boysenberry syrup mingle with cassis, red roses, and subtle baker’s chocolate. A distinct minerality adds a grounding note. On the palate, concentrated brambly blackberries and rich black currants take center stage, delivering a decadent experience yet retaining a refreshing vibrancy. The texture is supple and seamless, showcasing the wine’s exceptional balance. This is, quite simply, the finest Charbono I’ve ever encountered. The flavors linger exceptionally long, leaving a lasting impression.”
96 points